Asmara -  Eritrea - October 5th 2004

 

The morning starts with a visit to a lawyer's office and Asmara's High Court, to prepare a sound legal basis for my own future plans in Eritrea. Eritrea enjoys a favorable geographic position, historical sites, a rich and diversified cultural heritage and a warm-hearted, hospitable population, that makes it an interesting tourist attraction, and a nice place to live and work for me, when I retire.

After finishing formalities, I will explore the area to the south of Harnet Avenue. Somewhere between the Embassoira Hotel and the Sunshine Hotel, I find a beautiful decorated shop, selling Italian specialties. When I open the door, I am invited to visit the back of the store where a woman is making pasta. "If you want to try it, please visit our restaurant Marrosso, next door" she says to me.

I guess it is worth to try, especially because it is time to have lunch. The restaurant is a surprise in every respect. A lovely, clean typical Italian interior, friendly and prompt waitresses, and a value for money menu. Three dishes (ravioli, beef, and fruit salad) and two bottles of Coca Cola for 75 Nakfa.

I visit the Eritrean National Chamber of Commerce in Denden Street, to make some inquiries on the availability of the new business directory. There is some delay printing it, so I leave my name and address and the Nakfa's to send it to Holland when its finished.

"Sir, want to change money?" A man in a neat outfit, near the post office, is offering me a good price. I tell him it is my last to days in Eritrea. No euros left, nor Nakfa's. "Then please give me hundred Nakfa. Or fifty then? I had no business all day." I guess it is his problem. He must be very desperate to beg for money in his position.

Dark clouds fill the air, and a few minutes later it starts to rain. A blessing for Eritrea, only to bad I haven't got a jacket. The sun is cut off and it is cold. I have to take shelter in front of one of the shops in Asmara's main street. A girl waiting for her turn to use the public phone starts a conversation with me.

Suddenly a see a familiar face. Isn't this . . . . .? I cannot remember is name, but he must be the famous Eritrean singer, performing at the ETSA party. "It is Bereket Mengesteab", the girl says. I am surprised that it I am the only fan that is reacting to the passing of this Eritrean legend. I still get people stopping me on the street, but Bereket, the famous singer is left undisturbed by the Asmara people.

When the rain stops, I visit Terhas' pizzeria to have diner, and to catch up on my experiences of the last days. With only 24 hours to go in Eritrea, it may very well be the last time I see her. So I seize the opportunity to say good bey to her and the girls, promising I will be back next year to celebrate the fourteenth Independence Day. 

At an altitude of 2.400 meters, and a clear sky, the Asmara air is chilly at night, when I walk to the bus station, a few blocks from the pizzeria. When the bus turns into Eritrea Square, I carefully calculate where the entrance of the bus will be when it stops. When the bus opens its doors the crowd is trying to enter the bus, no one waiting for his turn. So I just focus on the center of the door and do not move a millimeter to the right or to the left, only ahead. It works, I have a seat.

I spend the last hours of the day in Berhe Aiba's Nightclub. The girls are very friendly. Senait is welcoming me with a warm handshake, Feben greets me from behind the bar. The third girl, Rahel is sitting behind the cash-register. It is quiet, so there is time to chat with the girls and exchange e-mail addresses. I promise Senait I will write her when I'm back and send her her picture by e-mail.

   

Administration of the High Court - Asmara Eritrea.

World Bank office - Asmara Eritrea.

Gastronomia Torinese - BDHO Avenue Asmara Eritrea.

Gastronomia Torinese - BDHO Avenue Asmara Eritrea.

Restaurant Marrosso - BDHO Avenue Asmara Eritrea.

Restaurant Marrosso - BDHO Avenue Asmara Eritrea.

Eritrean National Chamber of Commerce - Denden Street Asmara Eritrea.

Sembel Hospital - Asmara Eritrea.

  

UNMEE HQ - Asmara Eritrea.

Senait and Rahel - Berhe Aibai hotel and nightclub Asmara Eritrea.