Massawa Eritrea - September 19th 2004

 

"There is not much of interest in the mainland part of the town although this is where the majority of the population live". But since it is my fifth visit to Massawa since 1999, I decide to explore Edaga Berai, the part of Massawa that is seldom visited by tourist.

I leave the hotel at 7:00 when the temperature is still good for long walks. Near the tank monument, a taxi offers me his service. I refuse. "I will offer you this service for free". When I have boarded the taxi, it is clear that the driver is looking for passengers for Asmara, later this day. But I am not interested. "Where are you going then?" When I reply that I will visit Edaga Berai, the answer is clear. We are in Edaga Berai, so there will be no need for a taxi.

Since the travel guide says there is nothing special here, I decide just to snake through the streets and leave the main road behind as far as possible. The houses change into structures of wood, plastic, corrugated iron and ropes.

It is then that I am reminded to the fact that it is the people that make Eritrea so special. Every 500 meters I pass a house where I am invited for tea, or water. And quite different from my experience on the Batse island last night, it is the usual Eritrean hospitality. No business proposals, or hidden motives. Just nice chats and people that is interested in your interest for the area, proud to have you as their guest.

Women in beautiful colored dresses, contrasting with the wooden fences around the houses. Men in their white robes. Camels carrying merchandise. Children, excited to see a white man. "UN, UN!" It is obvious that tourist are rare in this area. I watch the tankers depositing water into large barrels stationed along the roadsides.

I decide to stay a bit longer and to visit the eastern part of this area (that is split by the Massawa - Asmara road) as well. In a mini mini market, I order a coke. I am offered a small stool. The guest should have a seat. They ask for my nationality. And when they hear that I am Dutch, it is even better. The Eritreans like to watch football and know many famous Dutch football players. "Kluivert, van Nistelrooy". Some boys ask me if I can arrange them to play football in the Netherlands. I can't.

At 14:00 I have seen it all, and the temperature has risen to 35 C. I planned my walk to end at the bus station, where a modern Mitsubishi mini bus is waiting to take us to Asmara. I claim a seat, using my luggage and wait outside, eating some water-melon sold in small stalls at the Massawa bus station.

At the stop-over in Ghinda I have an egg-burger for lunch. When I try to picture the kids selling peanuts, they all hide. Except one. I reward her courage with ten Nakfa. She doesn't understand. Why give ten Nakfa? She returns to the bus when we leave. The passenger next to me translates. "She came back to say thank you. And she asks if you can put her name to the picture. Her name is Gemila Edris from Ghinda".

Back in Asmara, I have my shoes polished in one of the many stalls. It is time to reverse the dehydration process, so I return to Selas Bar near the traditional Souk behind the mosque. I used to visit this bar in May this year and Freweini even remembers my favorite drink, Asmara Stout beer. Good taste,  vitamines and two bottles for a dollar. A good reason to take some extra vitamines.

 

Small scale trade (Red Sea salt), Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Carrying goods to the market, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Camel carrying wood, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Woman selling textiles, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Senait, lady bartender, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Bar and fast food restaurant, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Men selling soft drinks on the streets of Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Fashion shop, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Men producing stretchers, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Small grocery Shop, Edaga Berai - Massawa Eritrea.

Gemila Edris, "Please don't forget to add my name" - Ghinda Eritrea.