Keren Eritrea - September 28th 2004

 

At 7:00 when temperatures are still encouraging for long walks, I set off to visit Mariam Dearit, a holy site, beyond the outskirts of Keren, to pray for Deborah. Although it is a 4 - 5 kilometer walk from the house of Afworki to the compound of Mariam Dearit, I prefer to walk, asking the direction every once and a while.

The roads leads through a beautiful landscape, passing the traditional Keren houses, camels, donkeys, the Muslim graveyards, typical African vegetation and beautiful orchards. The surroundings make it a pleasure to walk. The compound that hosts the shrine is like heaven. Lines of trees, their bottom half chalked white. Hundreds of birds singing their song.

"Take off your sandals, for the place where you are standing is holy ground". On the carpet in front of the tree and the sanctuary, I take off my shoes. Two women in beautiful traditional dresses are watching me. I tell them about Deborah. They pray with me. One of them digs some sand from the roots of the baobab tree. We pack it in a paper handkerchief and they tell me how to use it. I light a candle, and put it next to the two candles lit by the women.

Small artefacts, of which only Holy Mary knows the meaning, are attached to the inner side of the tree. With the help of the women I add Debbie's picture to them, hoping it will be of any help.

Apart from the fact that I am in a very special place, the fact that these women we there, helped me and prayed with me, as if they were my sisters, although I had never seen them before, is both warming my heart and makes me very emotional. It is as if the Holy Mary sent these women to assist me in this remote place.

On my way to the bus station, I visit the Keren war cemetery. Hundreds of well-tended chalk-white marble graves of WW2 soldiers, who lost their lives in the 1941 battles between the British and Mussolini's forces. The Italians on the right, the Eritreans on the left of the cemetery, all graves decorated with bougainvillea.

At the bus station a very old bus is waiting for its passengers to Agordat. I buy a ticket and claim a seat, leaving my luggage on it. It will take some time before the bus will leave (most seats are still empty) so I walk to the terminal to have a drink and try to picture the children selling peanuts and other small stuff. When I point the camera at them, they are all gone, hiding behind the bus.

Just before Hagaz, the bus stops because of technical problems. The passengers leave the bus to stretch their legs, and wait in the shade of acacia trees. One of the rear wheel is removed. It doesn't look good. Slowly the bus finishes the journey to Hagaz. All the passengers receive 10 Nakfa for the rest of the trip to Agordat. In a few Toyota mini buses we continue our trip and we arrive in Agordat with a delay of two hours.

First thing to do is get a room in Almaz' hotel Belamberas. All the hotel rooms are occupied, but I can have one of the rooms that is reserved for the family. Almaz hands me a padlock to secure the door. I refuse to use it. I am sleeping in her house! And theft is very rare in Eritrea.

In the garden of the hotel we drink coffee, with Negisti, Almaz sister, and Terhas, who came to visit her family in Agordat. Almaz remembers my visit in May this year in every detail. Only a few foreigners visit her hotel every year. Most visitors are government employees visiting Agordat.

I spend the last hours of the day on the streets of Agordat. Due to a power failure, refrigerators did not operate today. All drinks are warm. Not far from the market I meet the tailor I pictured last year. He recognizes me and gives me a firm handshake. When I start talking to him he gesticulates that he is deaf. He invites me to drink tea with him.

After sundown I return to Almaz' hotel. Hotel Belamberas is a bit of a labyrith, but calling Almaz' name is enough get some help to find my room. Almaz is a soft-spoken woman. What is missing in luxury in her hotel, is made up for in her hospitality and friendliness. I have a shower and to drink a few beers with her, watching ERI-TV. Almaz brings me the guest book to register my name. Proudly she shows me the pencil a gave her in May this year.

 "As the candle illuminates one's pathway", goes the Tigrinya proverb, "so does a name guide one's destiny". Almaz, Tigrinya for diamond, sparkles with her philosophical thoughts, about peace in one's heart and other immaterial things that can make life pleasant. In Eritrea, where life is so hard, thoughts like these are part of survival, and happiness is derived from giving to, instead of taking from another.

 

The landscape around Keren Eritrea (on my way to Mariam Dearit).

The landscape around Keren Eritrea (on my way to Mariam Dearit).

The landscape around Keren Eritrea (on my way to Mariam Dearit).

The landscape around Keren Eritrea (on my way to Mariam Dearit).

Old timer FIAT bus - Keren Eritrea.

Shops - Keren Eritrea.

Carrying wood to the market - Keren Eritrea.

Fahti selling peanuts at the Keren bus station - Keren Eritrea.

  

Breakdown of the bus just before Hagaz Eritrea.

Negisti's coffee ceremony - Agordat Eritrea.